Greetings once more from Chiang Mai!
Five years ago, on August 7th we gathered together with loved ones on Kalapaki Beach to embark on the adventure of marriage. With the stress of National Boards, Professional Cert., planning a year away, and moving behind us, Nick and I are thrilled to spend this anniversary falling in love all over again on our new adventure. Our (very expensive) present to one another was a trip to the most amazing animal farm in Thailand, Patara.
Pat informed us that our first meeting with our elephant was extremely important and that the best way to make friends is to bring them delicious food. I knew I loved elephants for a reason.
After introductions, we left our elephants and reconvened to learn how to identify a healthy elephant in the morning. Four steps:
1. Elephants should ALWAYS be hungry. If they don't accept food something is wrong.
2. A dirty elephant is a healthy elephant. Dirt on both sides of the elephant means she slept laying down alternating between sides. Sick elephants know they might not have enough energy to get back up if they lay down, so they sleep standing up.
3. Sweat should be noticeable around an elephant's toenails, the only place they perspire.
Dung means the elephant ate during the night. But we still had some investigating to do...



- It should have a mild odor. It didn't smell quite as good as the picture would suggest, but it was surprisingly okay. Stinky pooh means slow digestion; food should run its course in 3 hours.
- It should be wet enough to squeeze liquid from it - yep, we had to handle the "poops."
- It should be comprised of small flickable fibers. Large pieces or leaves means poor teeth or digestion.

Made from real elephant, so you know its good.
Next we learned how to unchain our elephants from their feeding area.
I then led Nui by her ear (very 1950s teacher of me) to an open area where I told her to lay down, "nonlong" (now-long), so I could clean the dirt off of her.
Once they laid down we whacked our elephants with bunches of leaves to remove the dirt. This is where I noticed that Nui was the only elephant still wearing her chain. Hmmm.
We then walked our elephants to the river where we lovingly scrubbed the dirt from their massive bodies. Any remnants of dirt can lead to skin abscesses if ground into the skin by passengers or cargo.
It's important to scrub behind the ears AND under the trunk. What's the magic word? Buhn.








I then led Nui by her ear (very 1950s teacher of me) to an open area where I told her to lay down, "nonlong" (now-long), so I could clean the dirt off of her.
Once they laid down we whacked our elephants with bunches of leaves to remove the dirt. This is where I noticed that Nui was the only elephant still wearing her chain. Hmmm.She was clearly lovin' life.
It's important to scrub behind the ears AND under the trunk. What's the magic word? Buhn.One final cooling rinse and then its picture time with our squeaky clean elephants.

Pat wrote helpful words* on our forearms before we got on the elephants:
By: walk forward
How: stop
Toi: back up
Nonlong: sit down
Look: stand up
Jana (pronounced yana): don't do that, which is useful for trying to prevent an elephant from eating a farmer's crop.
Up we go. There are three methods of getting on an off of an elephant. Nick and I chose this mounting technique. She's so helpful!
Nick had a larger climb than I did.
It's higher than it looks.
On the way to the jungle trail via the road.
View of my mahout, "A" from atop Nui.
This is hardly the steepest or muddiest section of the trail.
This is hardly the steepest or muddiest section of the trail.Lunch at the waterfall...
but not before the elephants had a chance to cool off and play in the water. Some people chose to swim with the elephants but we had experienced enough dung for one day.
All vegetarian leftovers were fed to the elephants, including the banana leaf placemat and food containers.

The trip back to the farm was on the road. Nick and I were on the first two elephants in the group. Several (9 or so) elephants behind us, we heard an elephant trumpet LOUDLY, startled by a car. We continued to walk on and heard the same elephant call out again, this time responded to by a baby back at the farm.


All vegetarian leftovers were fed to the elephants, including the banana leaf placemat and food containers.Nick and I made it off the street and onto the dirt road that led back to the farm when the man on the elephant behind me began shouting profanities - turns out the elephant that his daughter was riding panicked and ran. The elephant calmed down but when it started running again, his daughter asked to get off. I patted Nui's head and told her, "di di" in appreciation of her staying calm...
*This is the last picture I took before finding out the "commands" written on my arm were useless in the event of stampeding elephants.
Most elephant communication isn't audible to human ears - the elephants in the back were sending warnings to elephants in the front.
Nui heard 'em loud and clear and took off toward the farm. My guide, seeing that I was about to be thrown from a rogue elephant, snatched me off and gracefully "assisted" my fall to the deep mud. He then hurried after Nui. Terrified that I was about to be trampled by the panicking elephants behind, I scurried into the prickly shrubbery alongside the trail taking shelter behind a rice farmer's hut. My only sustained injury - a brush scrape on my foot. Nick, looking a little concerned, quickly dismounted his shockingly placid elephant and we both waited for the mahouts to try and get control of the situation, which is difficult when elephants decide to go elephant.
Not everyone was as lucky as we were. In the midsts of the whole fiasco, two Canadian girls were riding tandem when their elephant flipped out and began sprinting down the highway. Eventually, they lost their grip, and fell to the pavement below incurring several strained muscles, one bitten lip, and a "precautionary" trip to the local hospital as their souvenirs.
Everything calmed down once all of the elephants made it back to the camp, and although there was no reason to get back onto Nui since the day was over, we made up through the exchange of a "di di" and an elephant kiss, which is actually more of a trunk suck to the arm. :)
Despite the overly exciting last minutes, I would relive the entire day again (and again) in a heartbeat - I'm sure this will be one of my favorite days, ever. And to think we almost celebrated with a spa day. Yuck.
We spent the next day, our actual anniversary, in the relative safety of a rooftop kitchen learning to cook 9 vegetarian Thai recipes.
Naan, who runs one of our favorite restaurants here in Chiang Mai, really schooled us in the art of Thai cooking.
-fresh spring rolls
-papaya salad
-pineapple fried rice
-pad thai
-tom kha
-red curry paste
-pumpkin curry (ft. red curry paste)
-green curry
-mango and sticky rice
Tomorrow we head out for Pai, a small town west of Chiang Mai. We've had enough of the city, and I've been instructed by my mom not to ride anymore elephants, so...
Hugs, kisses, and misses,
Ty






crossing my fingers that this comment makes it! All I have to say is WOW!!!!! This looks truly incredible! You two are sooooo brave. I feel like words truly can't express how amazed I am when I look at your photos!
ReplyDeleteI can't imagine a better anniversary. Happy 5th you two!
Best sentence ever:
ReplyDelete"This is the last picture I took before finding out the "commands" written on my arm were useless in the event of stampeding elephants."
sounds like an amazing journey, and I can't wait for you to "share" your delectable new Thai cooking skills when you return to the states!
I think my last comment didn't go through, so here goes!
ReplyDeleteThis story totally reminds me of that elephant story we read in class for Theme Traces; although I believe that that story took place in India. It sounds/looks like you are truly having an experience of a lifetime, I'm very jealous! However, allow me to live vicariously through your posts as you (re)define my throughts on thailand.
Matthew Pyles
P.S. My TIB essay was (finally) published online! :D
Thanks everyone! We love hearing your reactions.
ReplyDeleteMatt,
ReplyDeleteNice. Thanks for reading the blog - it takes a long time to create, and so it's rewarding when people check it out. That's awesome to hear about your TIB essay getting published! I sincerely hope you play an instrumental role in getting Spoken Word Club off the ground next year. I can't wait to see how far this goes at Jackson! Keep writing and publishing.
What an amazing anniversary guys...so cool.
ReplyDeleteTy-Ty - Glad you escaped Nui with only minor injuries...next time though, avoid the shrubbery because the problem with the shrubbery is the goats. Actually, on second thought, who cares about the shrubbery when you're trying to avoid an elephant stampede. Good job!!
I thought you'd be okay with me stepping into the shrubbery, as long as it wasn't YOUR shrubbery. Thank God there weren't any goats, I had plenty of four leggeds to avoid. :)
ReplyDeleteGoats?! After stampeding elephants a nice little goat might be as welcome as your own Tex. Having just read "Eat, Pray, Love" I was expecting to read that Ty received an abrasion from the "shrubbery" (Sorry, do they have any knights that say "NI!" there? Ask your Monty Python fan friends how best to id one.) which led to an infection that landed her either in hospital or in front of the local shaman who covered her wound in regurgitated palm tree bark.
ReplyDeleteSorry, I shouldn't have shared that--don't want to freak Nick out. Enjoy your tom kha.
Speaking of stampeding elephants, school starts in a week.
PS Did you notice that the videographer was rather focused on Ty? Even when confronted with pachyderm poo you are one hot babe.
Ahhh, Guffey - we miss you girl (especially Ty). And yes, I noticed the videographer was more into Ty - she does, after all, share her name with the country of origin (oh yeah - and she's cuter than I am).
ReplyDeleteMissin' ya terribly,
N and T